Καμπότζη - Καθεστώς Πολ Ποτ (Cambodia - Pol Pot Regime)

... το όνομα μάλλον Πολ Ποτ δε σας λέει και πολλά, αλλά ίσως έχετε ακούσει για τους Ερυθρούς Χμερ "... 30 χρόνια μετά και λίγες μόνο ημέρες προτού αποχωρήσω από την Καμπότζη (Φεβρουάριος 2009) ανακοινώθηκε ότι ξεκινούν οι δίκες για τους αξιωματούχους της μεγαλύτερης ίσως αδελφοκτονίας, του πιο αιματοβαμμένου ίσως εμφυλίου του προηγούμενου αιώνα ...

... Σήμερα σας παραθέτω το σχετικό άρθρο ανακοινώνοντας τις πρώτες αποφάνσεις του δικαστηρίου και στο τέλος αναφέρονται τίτλοι βιβλίων για όποιον θέλει να εμβαθύνει ...

«Βασανιστική μεταμέλεια» εξέφρασε ενώπιον του αρμόδιου διεθνούς δικαστηρίου ο επικεφαλής του διαβόητου κέντρου κράτησης Τουόλ Σλενγκ του καθεστώτος των Ερυθρών Χμερ του Πολ Ποτ, στο οποίο βασανίσθηκαν και εκτελέσθηκαν περισσότεροι από 14.000 άνθρωποι την περίοδο 1975-1979. Ο εισαγγελέας Ουΐλιαμ Σμιθ ζήτησε να επιβληθεί ποινή κάθειρξης 40 ετών κατά του Ντουκ, το πραγματικό όνομα του οποίου είναι Κάινγκ Γκουέκ Εαβ, που δικάζεται για εγκλήματα πολέμου και εγκλήματα κατά της ανθρωπότητας.

«Η μόνη αρμόζουσα ποινή έπρεπε να είναι η ισόβια κάθειρξη, αλλά πολλοί παράγοντες συνηγορούν για τη μείωση αυτής της ποινής», όπως εξήγησε ο εισαγγελέας, αναφερόμενος στα δέκα χρόνια προσωρινής κράτησης του Ντουκ, τη συνεργασία του «σε κάποιο βαθμό» με το δικαστήριο, τις τύψεις του και τη «συμβολή του στην εθνική συμφιλίωση». «Θα πρέπει να μην ξεχνάμε τα όνειρα και τις ευκαιρίες που κάποιοι στερήθηκαν, καθώς και την απώλεια και τον πόνο των οικογενειών των θυμάτων, που ακόμα υποφέρουν», όπως είπε ο εισαγγελέας απευθυνόμενος στους δικαστές. Ο 67χρονος Ντουκ δήλωσε μετανιωμένος, επισημαίνοντας ωστόσο ότι ακολουθούσε εντολές. «Προκειμένου να εκφράσω την πιο βασανιστική μου μεταμέλεια, συνεργάστηκα πλήρως και ειλικρινώς με το δικαστήριο», είπε ο κατηγορούμενος.

«Αναγνωρίζω ότι ήμουν μέλος των δυνάμεων του Πολ Ποτ και συνεπώς είμαι ψυχολογικά υπεύθυνος σε ολόκληρο τον πληθυσμό της Καμπότζης για τις ψυχές όσων πέθαναν». «Συνειδητοποίησα ότι υπηρετούσα μία εγκληματική οργάνωση που κατέστρεφε τους ίδιους τους ανθρώπους της… Δεν μπορούσα να αποσυρθώ… Ήμουν σαν βίδα στο μηχανισμό ενός αυτοκινήτου που δεν μπορούσε να απομακρυνθεί».

Δήλωσε ότι ήταν πεπεισμένος ότι πολεμούσε για να απελευθερώσει την Καμπότζη από τον αμερικανικό ιμπεριαλισμό κατά τη διάρκεια του πολέμου στο Βιετνάμ. Έχει αρνηθεί ότι ο ίδιος βασάνιζε ή σκότωνε κρατουμένους και ισχυρίζεται ότι ακολουθούσε εντολές φοβούμενος για τη δική του ζωή. Σύμφωνα με εκτιμήσεις, πάνω από 14.000 άνθρωποι πέρασαν από τις φυλακές, γνωστές και ως S-21. Οι περισσότεροι βασανίστηκαν και εξαναγκάστηκαν να «ομολογήσουν» ότι ήταν κατάσκοποι ή ότι είχαν διαπράξει άλλα εγκλήματα εναντίον του καθεστώτος. Στη συνέχεια τους εκτελούσαν στα λεγόμενα «στρατόπεδα θανάτου». Μόνο επτά κρατούμενοι επιβίωσαν.

Ανάμεσα στο 1975 και το 1979, περίπου δύο εκατομμύρια πολίτες της Καμπότζης, το εν τέταρτον του πληθυσμού, πέθαναν από τα βασανιστήρια, τις κακουχίες και τον υποσιτισμό, πριν το καθεστώς των Ερυθρών Χμερ ανατραπεί από την εισβολή του Βιετνάμ. Ολόκληρη η χώρα βυθίστηκε στο χάος και την εξαθλίωση, υπό το καθεστώς του Πολ Ποτ και την επιδίωξή του να επιστρέψει το «έτος μηδέν», να εφαρμόσει πλύση εγκεφάλου, να εκκενώσει τις πόλεις, να εξαλείψει τους πραγματικούς και τους υποτιθέμενους εχθρούς.

Η ετυμηγορία του δικαστηρίου αναμένεται στις αρχές του 2010. Ο Ντουκ είναι ο πρώτος από τους πέντε υψηλόβαθμους αξιωματούχους των Ερυρθών Χμερ που θα δικαστούν από το δικαστήριο που συγκροτήθηκε υπό την αιγίδα του ΟΗΕ.

Πηγές: ΑΠΕ-ΜΠΕ, Reuters, BBC

... πολύ ενδιάφερον θέμα το οποίο εμφανώς αγγίζει οποιονδήποτε ταξιδευτή στη χώρα της Καμπότζης. Κανένας από τους ντόπιους δεν έχει διάθεση για πολιτική κουβέντα και η πικρία είναι έκδηλη αν προσπαθήσεις να τους μιλήσεις για την εποχή εκείνη. Λογικό αν αναλογιστεί κανείς πώς σχεδόν όλοι έχασαν κάποιο μέλος της οικογένειας τους την περίοδο εκείνη...

... προτεινόμενοι τίτλοι ...

1. "Cambodia-Year Zero" by Francois Ponchaud (New York, 1977) ... *διαθέσιμο

2. "Pol Pot: The history of a nightmare" by Phillip Short (2004)

3. "Voices from S-21, Terror and history inside Pol Pot's secret prison" by David Chandler (California, 1999)

Μαζί για το κλίμα

... 13 ημέρες μένουν μέχρι τη διάσκεψη της Κοπεγχάγης ... και για να σταματήσουμε τις καταστροφικές επιπτώσεις της κλιματικής αλλαγής, τα ανεπτυγμένα κράτη πρέπει να μειώσουν τις εκπομπές τους κατά 40% έως το 2020 σε σύγκριση με τα επίπεδα του 1990.

Υπέγραψε την από κοινού δήλωση της Greenpeace και της WWF "Μαζί για το κλίμα".

Siem Reap (Cambodia)

19-22 January 2009

The name of this town is an oxymoron, as it means "Siamese Defeat" in their language. It was afternoon when we arrived at the place to be in the whole South-East Asia during the 60's. After 30 years of run-down the past few years became once again a tourist destination, mainly due to the Angkor, the 8th wonder of the world according to Cambodians. Man can see some main asphalted roads, small bridges over the tiny river, lots of trees, numerous Guesthouses, mini-markets, open-air market, a plethora of handicraft shops, all of them signs of tourism. French bakeries, pizza restaurants (even happy ones), book stores, bars, art galleries and more luxurious hotels are the evidence of a colonial era. 30 years since the French were kicked-out of there is not that long after all!
In general the first impression of Siem Reap reminded me Luang Prabang (Lao PDR); it's not the capital city, but the most famous though, attracting tourists and travellers from all over the world. The truth is that Siem Reap is really worth of visiting as Angkor is an imposing monument place. Well, the place is full of tricycles (tuk-tuk) that take you everywhere but we preferably rented bicycles for our get-to-know ride. We were glad to visit the open-air night market, not so much for the souvenir shops, rather for the unique kind of massage that exists there. Fishes give you foot massage by eating the epidermic dead cells. Check the relative video here. Firstly, it feels a bit giggling, but soon when you get used to it, honestly it is such a relish. After 20 min when you try to walk you feel like having replaced your feet, like an astronaut.
Needless to say that you should bargain in the night-market, but silk scarves, hammocks, wooden handicrafts and shirts are worth of buying. Prices are more bargainable in the picturesque stores next to the main square, where bakeries and local restaurants are situated. On the way to the night market the "Seeing Hands Massage" deserve your support, as they train blind people in the art of massage (6$ per hour). However, there are many scams and copycats taking advantage of blindness just to make profit.
In Siem Reap you may see many kind of weird dishes, but due to aesthetic reasons we did not taste any cockroaches, thick spiders or grasshoppers. I am not joking at all! We were brave enough only for the big red ants that were stir fried with some kind of meat. If you can overcome the fact that are ants, honestly they were more tasty than then the meat; a bit crunchy and their head stick in the teeth gap .. he he .... Dining in a very local restaurant was a nice experience particularly for Dimitris, as I had some similar images from Lao PDR.
Most of the daytime we were in the nearby temples of Angkor and only twice we managed to save some energy to check the night-life. Piano or karaoke bars, posh with colonial deco, or couple of lady bars, cocktail or live music bars and only two normal bars are among your choices. The re-appearance of buckets and jars as a bargain for alcohol was a nice surprise, but even cocktails at the price of 4$ are affordable for western travellers. "Angkor What?" with nice music is our choice. A handful of westernised restaurants, italian pizza places, some local restaurants and tonnes of stands in almost every road, two french bakeries-patisseries are the choices a traveller has to eat.
Bonne apetite!

Burma in crisis again - Free Aung San Suu Kyi

Dear readers and followers,

as I have mentioned in a recent post the political issue regarding the Burmese regime, I would like to draw your attention at an urgent petition for avaaz.org (a global web movement that sets some democratic missions). Please spare three minutes from your time and read and sign below:

Burma's democracy leader and Nobel Peace prize winner, Aung San Suu Kyi, has been locked up on new trumped up charges, just days before her 13 years of detention was due to expire. She and thousands of fellow monks and students have been imprisoned for bravely challenging the brutal military regime with peaceful calls for democracy.
Risking danger to speak out for their jailed friends, Burmese activists are demanding the release of Aung San Suu Kyi and all political prisoners and calling on the world to help. We have just six days to get a flood of petition signatures to UN Secretary-General Ban Ki Moon calling on him to make their release a top priority -- he can make this a condition for renewed international engagement. Follow the link to sign the petition, and forward this email on to friends to ensure Aung San Suu Kyi and all political prisoners are freed. Burmese activists will present the global petition to the media on May 26th:

http://www.avaaz.org/en/free_aung_san_suu_kyi/?cl=236956364&v=3318

Best,
Kolya

... epiki metafora ... (Meros B')

Welcome in Cambodia λοιπόν ...
... είχαμε διαβάσει και ενημερωθεί για ποικίλους τρόπους που χρησιμοποιούν σε αυτό το συνοριακό πέρασμα για να κλέψουν τον ταξιδιώτη, από ψεύτικα πρακτορεία που ενώ έχεις πληρώσει εισητήριο μέχρι την πρωτεύουσα της Καμπότζη σου ζητούν επιπρόσθετα χρήματα μόλις φτάσεις στα σύνορα, απατεώνες που εκδίδουν βίζα σε τριπλή τιμή και άλλα πολλά. Οπότε ψιλιασμένοι δε θέλαμε να δώσουμε λεφτά σε κανέναν για τυχόν διευκολύνσεις και προτιμήσαμε να ταλαιπωρηθούμε μόνοι μας. Ούτε αχθοφόρος, ούτε δήθεν υπάλληλος του immigration office!
Για περισσότερες πληροφορίες τέτοιου είδους σε χώρες τις ΝΑ Ασίας: http://www.travelfish.org/
Το τουκ-τουκ -το γνωστό τρίκυκλο για όσους δεν ανέγνωσαν παλιότερα posts- μας μετέφερε από το σιδηροδρομικό σταθμό σε ένα πρόχειρα στημένο υπάιθριο γραφείο για να πάρουμε τη βίζα, όπου πληρώνεις US 30$ και μετά σε 5 λεπτά φτάσαμε στη συνοριακή γραμμή. Στην ουδέτερη ζώνη μεταξύ των δύο χωρών, αντιλαμβάνεσαι από την επαιτεία πώς εισέρχεσαι σε ακόμα μια πολύ φτωχή χώρα. Παιδάκια σου τραβάν τα ρούχα για να τους δώσεις οτιδήποτε. Καιρό είχα να το ζήσω αυτό και τα λιγοστά παιχνιδάκια που μου είχαν μείνει εξαφανίστηκαν αμέσως. Στα 50μ. έχει τεράστιο κτίριο "Cambodia Immigration Office", όπου υποτίθεται ότι θεωρείς τη visa, αλλά τελικά είναι και αυτό ψεύτικο γιατί απαιτούν και άλλα λεφτά και στη συνέχεια τα μοιράζονται με το επίσημο κράτος της Καμπότζη. Απατεώνες ολκής! Το επίσημο μικρό παρατημένο γραφείο είναι 100μ πιο κάτω ... χε χε ...
Εμείς την πατίσαμε λιγάκι με τα λεωφορεία, μιας και σε μεταφέρουν μεν δωρεάν στον κοντινότερο νεόκτιστο σταθμό λεωφορείων, αλλά τελικά από εκεί δε φεύγουν λεωφορεία για πουθενά. Καλό, ε; Δεν έχει ξεκινήσει ακόμα η γραμμή για Siem Reap που θέλαμε να πάμε. Αναγκαστικά λοιπόν παζαρεύεις με ταξί για να φύγεις από τη μέση του πουθενά, και επειδή είναι πιάτσα και όλοι γνωστοί δε σου ρίχνουν τις τιμές. Φυσικά και θα ήταν φτηνότερα άμα το παζαρεύαμε στα σύνορα, αλλά που να τα γνωρίζεις όλα. Μετά από 20 λεπτά και ενώ προσποιηθήκαμε ότι θα πάμε προς τον κεντρικό δρόμο για οτο-στοπ, συμφωνήσαμε στα 35$ με τον οδηγό του λεωφορείου που και καλά δεν ήξερε τίποτα για τιμές όταν μας μάζεψε άρον άρον από τα σύνορα. Τελικά αυτός τα διαπραγματεύεται όλα και ένας πιτσιρικάς ανέλαβε την αποστολή, το ταξίδι 3 ωρών. Καρτέλ βλέπετε δεν έχουμε μόνο στην Ελλάδα ;)
Δρόμος κακοτράχαλος, αλλά σύντομα θα είναι πολύ καλύτερος μιας και γίνονται έργα σε όλο το μήκος του και θα εξυπηρετεί επισκέπτες που έρχονται από Ταϊλάνδη οδικώς. Σε λιμνάζοντα νερά παραπλεύρως της εθνικής διακρίνεις να ψαρεύουν με δίχτυ, μάλλον βατράχια ή δεν ξέρω τι άλλο ζωντανό μπορεί να ζει εκεί και να τρώγεται. Βλέπεις τους εναρίτες της τοπικής ΔΕΗ να είναι σκαρφαλωμένοι χλωρίς εξοπλισμό πάνω στα καλώδια, διακρίνεις αγροτικά αυτοκίνητα με τεράστια φορτία έτοιμα να ντελαπάρουν ή γεμάτη η καρότσα με ανθρώπινες ψυχές να μεταφέρονται όσο πιο φτηνά γίνεται.
Τέτοιες εικόνες στην Καμπότζη θυμίζουν αρκετά το Λαό, αλλά με μια διαφορά εκ πρώτης επαφής, ήδη από τα σύνορα είδα πολύ περισσότερους να μιλούν τα στοιχειώδη αγγλικά. Σε μια στάση σε ένα μπακαλικο-εστιατόριο συναντήσαμε και άλλα αυτοκίνητα γεμάτα με ξένους που κατευθύνονταν στη Siem Reap. Φυσικά και γευτήκαμε το δικό τουυς ανανά και μπανάνες, μιας και είναι το καθημερινό (ασφαλές) μικρο-γεύμα και το τιμάει και ο Δημήτρης. Ήταν πλεόν σούρουπο όταν φτάσαμε τελικά σε ένα hostel, μιας και οι αρχικές επιλογές σύμφωνα με τον οδηγό ήταν γεμάτα.
Για να πάρετε μια φωτογραφική γεύση της Καμπότζης επισκεφτείτε εδώ.

... mia akoma epiki metafora ... (Meros A')

Με τα αλάτια της θάλασσας και χορταστική μέρα μπάνιου συνοδεόμενη κλασσικά από mixed φρέσκο μάνγκο και ανανά επιστρέψαμε Ao Nang, όπου μας περίμενε ήδη το mini-van. Μισή ωρίτσα δρόμος για έναν ιδιωτικό σταθμό λεωφορείων, λίγο έξω από το Krabi και αναμονή εκεί περίπου μια ώρα, οπότε και κάναμε ντουζάκι στις τουαλέτες. Πολύ προνοητικοί αυτοί οι Ταϊλανδοί ρε παιδί μου ...τσ τσ τσ ... ότι σκεφτείς ή θελήσεις είναι εκεί, δε χρειάζεται να κάνεις ρούπι ... για προέδρους και θεούληδες φτιαγμένο το μέρος ...

Αφού κατέφθασαν δίαφορα μινι-βανάκια γεμίσαμε ένα VIP bus, διώροφο με πολλές θέσεις πού ελαφρώς ξαπλώνουν (έχουμε ταξίδεψει και με πιο άνετα στη χώρα αυτή), και ξέκινησε το 12 ωρο ταξίδι μέχρι Μπάνγκογκ. Από τη γειτονιά της Khao San, όπου μας άφησε και έπειτα από χοντρό παζάρι ο τουκ-του-κας μας άφησε τάκα τάκα στο σιδηροδρομικό σταθμό στις 5.50 πμ. Ευτυχώς οι άνθρωποι είναι εξυπηρετικοί και από το ταμείο, που μας αντίκρυσε ιδρωμένους και αναψοκοκκινισμένους από το τρέξιμο, μίλησε στον ασύρματο και είπε στο σταθμάρχη να περιμένουν 2 λεπτά πριν την αναχώρηση. Τόσο χρειαζόταν και καθυστερήσαμε το τραίνο, ώστε να ανέβουν οι τελευταίοι επιβάτες, 2 άξιοι έλληνες εκπρόσωποι του "last minute" :)
Μόλις λίγες εκατοντάδες μέτρα από το σταθμό και με κατέυθυνση ανατολικά, αντικρύσαμε ένα απίστευτο σκηνικό, όπου πάγκοι είναι στρωμένοι σε αμφότερες πλευρές από τις ράγες και άνθρωποι στρώνουν την πραμάτεια τους μιας και ξεκινάει η καινούρια μέρα. Το εντυπωσιακό είναι ότι αυτοί που θα ψωνίσουν από εκεί στέκονται κυριολεκτικά πάνω στις ράγες!!! ... μια σκηνή από Ιντίανα Τζόουνς για όσους θυμούνται.
Φτάσαμε στα σύνορα Ταϊλάνδης με Καμπότζη, στο Aranya Prathet, νωρίς το μεσημέρι πλέον μιας και προλάβαμε το πιο αργό τραίνο που έχω ταξιδέψει ποτέ, 200 χλμ. - 6 ώρες !!! Τι περιμέναμε και εμείς με εισιτήριο 1 €, ε; Αναρίθμητες στάσεις σε κάθε χωριουδάκι μέσα στους αγρούς. Μέσα στα βαγόνια, που ήταν πλήρως αεριζόμενα, από τα παράθυρα και τις πόρτες που δεν υπήρχαν, μπορούσες να διακρίνεις όλη την πραγματική επαρχία της χώρας, μόνο κότες δεν είχαμε μέσα. Πολύ φαί που έφερναν γυναίκες που επιβιβάστηκαν στον ένα σταθμό και αποβιβάστηκαν στον επόμενο μιας και πούλησαν τα αγαθά τους. Άλλη έφερνε αυγά, άλλη ξηρούς καρπόυς, άλλη ψημένα κοτοπόδαρα ... όλες όμως είχαν ρύζι ως βάση, για να μη ξεχνιόμαστε. έτσι; Οι όμορφες αυτές εικόνες, οι απίστευτοι φτωχικοί οικισμοί στη μέση του πουθενά, οι γλαφυροί χωρικοί και οι χαμογελαστοί επιβάτες, ξεγελούσαν διαρκώς την ταλαιπώρια και την αϋπνία μας.

Το video αυτό περιγράφει λιγάκι την κατάσταση που επικρατεί στην "αγορά" σε μικρή απόσταση από το σταθμό των τραίνων.

Phuket & Ao Nang

The same day I was paying a visit to the Burmese borders, Dima & Thekla decided to leave the exotic islands and come to Phuket in order to get the next day a plane to Bangkok and then from BKK back to Greece. They felt somehow homesick!! :p Snifff Anyway, there we met altogether in Patong beach, the first co-travellers with the following ones, and had a delicious seafood dinner at a posh restaurant, including lobster, red snapper, giant tiger prawns, crabs and squid. Yummy indeed, although I believe it was the most expensive meal we had since we left Greece, correct me if I am wrong Dima ...
Patong beach is the main town of the island, it resembles slightly a place in Miami, where beach is kilometres long and so wide, numerous jet skis and any kind of water sports, restaurants and supermarkets at the beach street, locals that speak fluently english and make lots of money out of tourists, foreigners living there permanently owning business like hotels, bars, restaurants, rental companies or even small agencies. Greeks of course wouldn't be an exception and greek kolo-bars can be found at the heart of the night-life district. You can hear also some live bands, mostly rock or reggae, or visit the huge clubs, temples of "love". Spyros was our guide there and he knew good spots for massage and food, but in 2 days we felt like seeing enough and there were so many other places to check.
Then with the "new" Dimitri we wandered around Phuket island, to Karon, Kata Yai, Kata Noi and Nai Han beach, but more or less the scenery was alike. 5 star hotels dominate all the beach front side, thousands of umbrellas and reclining chairs, restaurants, shops and congested small summer "towns" is what you may expect here. Man can see mostly middle-aged tourists that are looking for comfortable and lazy vacations, everything available at their feet and most of them won't even move outside the super complex that they stay. Ok, I agree that it is among the best value for money service and accommodation provided, but still this is not what we were looking for, Rhodes is even closer to experience this (in 20 years from now or what) :p ... The truth is that the sea and beaches are still really attractive, despite the confluence and presumably 15 years ago were still some paradisal places in this huge island.
We left Phuket to the Phi Phi island, as described two posts below, and then slowly slowly we decided to start going north. Our last stop in Southern Thailand was Ao Nang, as for Dimitri it meant to be the last time swimming. Initially we thought of visiting Krabi, a magnificent small town, but the sea there is not that attractive due to the port and is getting too touristic during January. So on the west side of Krabi you can find Ao Nang, a place to stay, but still not good enough for swimming. The long beach Hat Tham Phra Nang that starts from Railay, the closest port hosts many locals or Thai tourists who like to swim and having pic nic next to the seaside, thus parking places keep cars only few metres away from them. We rented a motorbike and only 15min away we found remote places to relax, swim and local food to eat.

Burmese borders

Let's put things slightly in a chronologically order as followers justifiably got confused ...

... as my Thai visa was once again expiring, I had to exit and re-enter the country. So I travelled to Phuket island and particularly Patong beach to meet my new co-traveller (Kikilis) and from there I had on the 10th of January a long day trip to Burmese borders.
Early in the morning by mini van a 6 hour trip through Ranong and then from that picturesque port by a small kind of ferry boat up to the borders with Birmania (Burma). Actually the borders are among some tiny islands, at one of them you can spot the coast yard and customs that are wooden constructions on the sea. The sea passage is controlled only on the way back from the Burmese land and they search everyone and thoroughly all baggage, as alcohol, lifestyle drugs (Viagra, cialis etc) and cigarettes are ridiculously cheap there. In Burma there are numerous laboratories that produce all these drugs for multinational pharmaceutical companies, so locals get them in bulk quantities unpacked of course and deal them by the borders to make some money.
Well about my this short visit there was some second thoughts, as there is an atypical boycott of all backpackers to this poor country. Travellers consider their visit in Burma as an economic kind of help to the junta and they prefer not to bother at all with it as a travel destination. Me and Dima had more or less the same perception, until we met some people that have been there and they claimed that no matter where you go there one way or another you give some money to locals. Even if you buy something to eat or drink your accommodation, whatever you may consume will definitely help such a devastated population. It's true that you are not allowed to travel wherever you like within the country as you may witness an authoritarian regime and I am not quite sure how much censorship is there for audiovisual material and how close you might get to people or even talk to them ... Nevertheless, directly the junta makes profit only by the visa fees. So, now I believe Burma is an interesting destination for non-comfy backpacking and I am strongly looking forward it in the next trip to the SE Asia.
Maybe it was a coincidence, but as soon as I got back to Thessaloniki, during the 11th International Documentary festival, a film called "Burma VJ - Reporting from a closed country", if I am not mistaken, won the audience and the International Amnesty award. It's a group of around 30 local reporters that illegally record the impingement of human rights in their country. They manage to smug from the borders the material to secret places in Thailand and then broadcast it through satellite from Oslo. These are the images we all watched by the end of 2007, when more than 100.000 people demonstrated against the military junta that governs the country more than 40 years now.

Please find more info regarding the documentary in the link below:
http://burmavjcom.title.dk/burma-vj/

Koh Phi Phi Don (THA)

As soon as Tina and Alex left to go back either to Shanghai or Thessaloniki, I decided to visit Koh Phi Phi, a neighbouring small island. Couchsurfers Daniel and Kyla were kind enough to help me spot cheap accommodation, as the island is pretty busy particularly in whole January. Daniel works there as a dive instructor and my tiny room is over the diving school. Two days I was watching divers and potential divers arranging equipment, watching underwater videos, arranging excursions in nearby islands. It was time to get to dive, but in the meanwhile I was expecting Dimitri, another mate from Greece that has just arrived for a three weeks stay. Unfortunately, he arrived with a flu and diving was out of a question once again. Such a pity though!

In Koh Phi Phi is dominated by diving schools, as it is a really small place to fit 22 of them. However, traveller has also the chance to snorkel in amazing places, like monkey beach and even watch sharks around yourself. For the latter experience there is also a money guarantee. ooooh, yes I mean if you do not watch a shark while snorkelling they will pay you back the 8 euros you had given!!! Professionalism, right?
With Dimitri we spent 4 more days in the beautiful island, which was severly destroyed by the tsunami on 24th December 2004. A memorial at the very end of south beach reminds visitor of the tremendous effect a natural phenomeno may have. It is devastating that hundreds of tourists and even more locals have dissapeared, as the narrow strip of land was fully covered by the giagantic waves. They managed to pass from one side to the other and you can witness that as there are still lots of ruins and demolished homes.
However, the past 5 years it became a must destination for young travellers and in the tourist village street vendors, souvenir shops, restaurants, tourist agants and diving operators are back in full swing. The fact that the movie "The beach" was filmed in Koh Phi Phi Leh contributed also a lot to put this small island in the tourist map of Thailand. Visitor is suggested to experience the long tail boat tour either to the beach Maya Bay, or Bamboo island (Koh Mai Phai).
The island has no road network and there aren't any vehicles. All goods, stuff as well as tourists' suitcases are carried on some custom made wheeled carts and locals make money as porters. Phi Phi is also in among youngsters because of the long beach nighttime and the numerous beach bars that stay open until early morning hours. Every night there is kind of a beach party and buckets once again (like in Lao) appeared as a bargain for alochol consumption. Conluding, some days (nights) like these were indeed missed and it was like an interval in the travelling style so far. Here i got also the virus for getting to learn diving and a few posts later you would see why it was a hell of an experience.

Kolya is also back

It's been 3 months since Dima and a month since Kolya returned back to Greece, but there is still much to share through the blog.

Koh Kradan

We reached Koh Kradan, an earthial paradise as they call it, to spend some nights and swim in turquoise waters. The local marine park hosts some amazing coral reefs and the inner part of the small island is conquered by vegetation. You only approach the main beach by powerboats that arrive from Koh Lanta. White sand all around, palm and other trees, a semi-abandoned cozy resort, large camping tents that belong to the established marine park is what the visitor firstly faces.

As soon as we decided to overnight there, we went for a short walk to explore the inner part of the tiny island where a swedish guy has contsructed some beautiful bungalows that can keep you slightly away from the "busy" beach as boats are coming and going until 15.00. However, an amazing almost beach lies at the back side of the Koh Kradan, a foot path to a nice viewpoint and as Dima witnessed you can walk all around te perimeter of the island in a few hours (including some diving). Snorkelling is a must here as corals lie only 15 meters away from the beach and the sea bottom is so rich, fishes, corals, seaweed, squids and many more is the attraction of this place. Food was once again seafood!!!
Unfortunately the next day it was Alex and Tina's last day in south Thailand so we had to leave back to Koh Lanta, however Dima, Thekla and Iris decided to extent their stay. We saluted them from the boat leaving and I somehow felt that I wouldn't see them soon again, until our next destination which was Cambodia. Everyday on the phone they were telling me about the prolonging of their stay and I was smiling as it was indeed the place they wanted and should chilled out. They even found an italian guy with some front beach bungalows and moved there for couple more days. A perfect place to read a book, sunbathe, relax, swim, eat or do nothing. The only sound might come form grasshoppers that are so loud until sunset.

NO MORE ENGLISH said Dima and he gives the greek citation:
Opws ftaneis me to karabaki antikryzeis 4 camping sites,to ena apo ayta me typou military skines k ta ypoloipa 3 me bungalows pou kostizoun apo 4 mexri 100 euro.To prwto brady meiname stis skines gia na thimithoume k ligo ta ellinika kalokairia mas k epeita metaferthikame sta bungalows enos italou pou arazei ekei 6 mines to xrono.Sto Kradan analoga me tin ampwti k plimiryda pantote, mporeis na gyriseis olo to nisi perimetrika me ta podia k na anakalypseis kainourgies paralies.Otan peftei o ilios,o kosmos diasxizei to kataprasino nisi k metaferetai stis 3 paralies tis dytikis pleyras pou einai akomi pio agnes k kathares.Apo edw den erxontai karabia me touristes, to mono pou perimeneis na deis einai pote tha agiksei o katakokkinos ilios to aspro probataki apo ta kymata..Kati tetoio eixe dei k o Xronis merika xronia nwritera k mas proteine ayto to meros. Snorkelling, seafood k smile ta 3s sto neo polyprismatiko fako twn matiwn mas.
Kathe prwi sto micro restaurant tis paralias dokimazame fruit shakes anti gia kafe k pancakes me meli k malwname poios tha prwtoparei tin mia k monadiki maska gia na boutiksei.Dekades eidi psariwn k kofterwn korraliwn se magnitizoun me ta xrwmata tous k pragmatika anarwtiesai ti tha deis stin epomeni boutia. K ola ayta sta 15 metra apo tin akti.
I Thekla exei araksei stin ammo k anarwtietai apo pou erxetai enas ekkwfantikos ixos.Sto Kradan den exei reyma para mono tis bradynes wres apo gennitria, skeftetai, ara den mporei na einai texnitos aytos o thoryvos.Sikwnetai k paei pros ta dentra apo ena monopati.O ixos dynamwnei k etsi strefei to kefali tis psila k katalabainei pws einai periodos zeygarwmatos gia ta micra thai tzitzikia pou den ysixazoun an den pesei o ilios..
To eylogo erwtima einai poso kairo mporei kapoios na kathisei edw...Oxi Bilako den einai gia sena to nisaki ayto,exei mono kataramenes garides kokkina psaria k glywdeis soupies gia fagito panta synodevomenes apo ryzi. Gia mas toys ypoloipous proteinw 6 mines Ellada k 6 mines edw. Kala akougontai ola ayta, nai, to thema einai pws pragmatopoieitai ayti i idea. Nick ti les, na tous to fanerwsoume?

Koh Lanta ... last days of 2008

We were so delighted to welcome sister, girlfriend, friends in BKK (meeting point) right after X-mas day. We only spent few days there and then headed on to Koh Lanta altogether. Well not exactly altogether as some of us chose plane, as they are used to comfort :p It was really time for some swimming in salt water, cause until then we had the chance to swim only in a river.

Koh Lanta is a rather big island in South part of Thailand, close to Krabi you can say. Due to its proximity to Malaysia there is a vast majority of muslims there and it was a bit weird to hear the imam 6 times per day during salah. Our bungalows called Lanta River Sand were in the west coast at Hat Khlong Nin beach, where you can find rocky beaches and in between some sand strips.
In Lanta we felt like having proper holidays. The day was starting with breakfast, some swimming and day trips to close by islands like Koh Rok, Koh Muk, Koh Kan, later on a massage by the beach during sunset, some beers for the night and plenty of time to relax, read your book. Of course food was once again delicious and seafood at a very low cost. Needless to say how many crabs and prawns I was eating, as well as fish. Particularly at a small muslim restaurant by the road side all the rest experienced pure local cuisine at very real prices and they couldn't believe that a dish costs around a euro. In touristic places, next to resorts and bungalows prices are at least doubled, but still so reasonable, only the bakery at the next resort was greek priced.
For the New Years Eve we found out that there was a beach party at Hat Phra Ae and we ended up there. In proved to be a really nice night with so many people, locals and foreigners, listening for more than 3 hours to a local reggae band. Dancing by the sea until we were drunk enough to go back. It was already dawn time. During the event we also met by concidence Robby and Billie, a couple that we first saw in Khuzur Island in Siberia. It is such a small world after all. Good luck guys with your stay in Australia!
In Lanta it is recommended to visit the national park at the south end of the island, where monkeys are next to the beach and some small coral reefs at a snorkelling distance 20m from the beach. Ao Nui is an amazing beach really long beach and at the north end is the "why not " beach bar with live music every night. This is where we celebrated Thekla's birthday. K tou hronou me hamogela! Visitor should also pay a visit to Mongo's bar for unique shakes at Hat Khlong Nin beach.
By the time we realised that the small islands around have unique sandy beaches and offer more tranquillity we decided at least to overnight there and here we were, the whole team on board to Koh Kradan.

an epic transfer ...

As we decided to take a massage course in Chiang Mai Thailand, we had to find away to reach that place again. Vang Vieng though was quite far so we started a huge epic trip. Firstlt, the bus (5h) to the capital of Lao, Vientiane, where we spend only 2 hours. It seemed to be nice place tailored for farangs. We saw many of them living there, working for NGO's, being engaged with local women, or even working for some years. Another bus took us to the Thai borders at Nong Khai that were only 25km away. Soon there is going to be a train connection from Bangkok to Vientiane, that will be an interesting route. Immigration office, border crossing once again and here we are in Thailand for the our second time.
We reached Udon Thani city where we had to change once again a bus. The last was a superb VIP sleeping bus, with very comfy seats and descent toilet (more than 1,5 height). This last leg of the trip lasted 12 more hours. The funny thing were the 6 monks next two us with their orange clothes, semi covered by blankets from the bus company, and listening to music by ipods. A proper ad for apple.
So in total we were travelling 26 hours in a row to reach our favourite destination Chiang Mai. aHowever, we spent only 4 more days there. We learnt how to give a thi massage :p .... Guests were arriving really soon in Thailand and it was Christmas eve, when we reached Bangkok for the second time.

Vang Vieng (LAO)

To taksidi apo Luang Prabang pros Vang Vieng diirkise poli, perissotero tou anamenomenou k ta strofilikia itan polla. Eki siniditopiisame oti to Lao ehi polla vouna. Molis mpenis sto leoforio sou dinoun plastiki sakoulitsa mias k oi perissoteroi ntopioi den ine sinithismenoi se taksidia k idika me leoforio se tetious dromous. Oi haradres paramonevan k omoloume oti itan ligo fovistika, alla to topio se antamivi ta mala. Apisteftes eikones k diahita horia kremasmena stis plagies kata mikous tou dromou.

Oi prwtes eikones pou antikrysame ftanontas to brady stous dromous tis Vang Vieng itan methysmenoi aggloi k araxtoi touristes pou trwgane blepontas Friends & Simpsons. Meta tin prwti apogoiteysi omws eidame oti eimaste se ena panemorfo meros pou an apofygeis ta gwniaka bar k tous kraxtes tous tha peraseis yperoha. Ayto kanane k polloi european pou menoune ekei k telika kanane oikogeneies k menoun 6 mines ton xrono se auton ton yperoxo topo.To kentro toy einai o potamos Nam Song k ola diadramatizontai gyrw toy. Tin imera oi ntopioi edw kanoun mpanio, plenoun ta rouxa tous, psarevoun, mazevoun horta anamesa apo tis pertres, kapoioi alloi taksidiwtes dokimazoun tis ikanotites tous sto kayak k alloi sto tubing (samprella fortigou). Kanenas den xefeygei apo ta bar stis oxthes toy Nam Song pou exoun stisei nerotsoylithres, vatires gia boutia k patentes typou ziprails (Flight of Gibbon) pou kataligoun sto nero k merikes fores panw se allous louomenous. i sti hiroteri se krimena vrahia. Ola ta parapanw isxyoun gia periodo ksirasias-Noembrio me Februario-afou toys ypoloipous mines i stathmi toy potamou anebainei metra oloklira k oi drastiriotites meiwnontai sto elaxisto.
Ksefeygontas apo to polykosmiko kentro tis Vang Vieng, yparxoun anoixtes agores me alithina prwsopa pisw apo toys brwmikous pagkous. Itan mesimeri, oloi itan oligon araxtoi pisw stis karekles tous i sta krebbatia tous (pou einai mesa sta magazakia tous) tin wra pou emeis psaxname gia post office gia na steiloume tis prwtoxroniatikes kartes pou ftasane Ellada enamisi mina meta. Xe xe ... to gelio ine oti oi ntopioi de tha sikothoun tin ora tis siestas tous na se eksipiretisoun. Apo tin aiora, to rnatso i tin karekla tha se rotisoun ti thelis k 99% tha sou poun "den eho", "den ksero" ... "oxou re farang pou olo erhese tis akatalilles ores k ehis k apetisis pia"... kapos ets skeftonte k isos k na ehoun dikio. Idi megali ektasi sto kentro me barakia, restaurants, internet cafes, mini markets k travel agents ehi diamorfothi idika gia tis anages ton farang. I ypoloipi poli zi stous dikous tis rythmous, ihous, mirodies, ikones ...
Me podilato k mixanaki kapoies fores perasame to footbridge pou mas horize to potami k traviksame dytika gia na doume spilies k parapotamous (Tham Phu Kham). Paroti oi apostaseis einai mikres, mia fora mono kataferame na ftasoume sto legomeno Blue Lagoon, afou kathe fora briskame synarpastika topia k mas epiane i nyxta. Na min ksexniomaste, i apagoreysi meta tis 12 k pali isxyei, opote kommenes oi ellinikes synithies na bgainoume meta tis 2 to brady sta barakia. Oi mousikes ekei, dystyxws poly katw tou metriou, kratiesai zwntanos apo ta buckets full of white russian k protimas na teleiwsei to djiliki k na arakseis stis polyxrwmes aiwres gia muang.
Telika itan to proto meros sto olo taksidi so far pou meiname shedon 10 meres. Se ayton ton paradeiso tou backpacker pou sygkritika me ypoloipa merakia se Southeast Asia einai -oxi gia poly akomi, osoi to apofasisete biasteite- akoma agno, xalaro k poli ftino. Sti suite pou miname diname 10 afro alla grigora metakomisame ekso apo to island me ta barakia, 7 afro to diklino me thea to potami, mazi me tin aiora :p .... Khàwp jąi la lai (eyxaristoyme poly) to Q-bar panw ston kentriko k tin monadiki stroumpouli kyria toy Falcon restaurant (next door to Q-bar) gia ta yperoha breakfast k gevmata. Eis sto epanidein ;)

Luang Prabang

Ftasame se astiko topio, oi farang einai tosoi polloi k opou k na gyriseis tin matia sou tous blepeis. Oi ntopioi tin exoun psiliastei tin douleia me ton tourismo k ola einai dyo me treis fores akribotera, ektos apo to filokseno guesthouse Mai-Pai Inn. O sympathitikos tourkos idioktitis pou isa isa fainetai to xamogelo toy katw apo tin plousia geneiada toy gkrineiazei synexeia gia to fagito, gia tis diakopes reymatos, gia tous ntopious, gia ton kairo. K aftos omos meta apo megali periplanisi se oli tin Asia eki katelikse prin liga hronia (mesogiaki nootropia diladi). Apo tin prwti anagnwristiki bolta stous 3 paralillous dromous tis Luang-Prabang ksexwrizoun ta diatiritea ktiria pou afisan oi Galloi sto diaba tous, ta polla european cafe, oi foritoi pagkoi fagitwn pou serbiroun sxedon ta panta se baguette k oi ametritoi naoi me toys monaxous tyligmenous sta portokali rasa.

Mias k aneferes tous naous, na prostheso mono pos afti i poli os politistiki klironomia tis UNESCO den ekpempi katholou telika kapia thriskeftiki kataniksi, kati spiritual genikotera. Oi naoi ine pio poli sight, eno oi monahoi erhonte kirios apo ta poli ftoha horia k an mi ti allo, toulahiston eksasfalioun trofi & stegi. Mas diigithikan polles istories apo touristes/stries pou ihan ponires protasis apo monahous. Emis petihame mia orea omada afton sto leoforio apo Lao pros Tailandi k itan gia ad tis Apple, me ta rasa, tin kouvertoula, to ipod k ti thesi piso ksaplomeni na kimounte. Vevea ofiloume na omologisoume oti ine arketa dektikoi gia opiodipote siitisi k se kathe nao vlepis ksenous na zitan mazi tous ston avlogyro.
I agora einai kathe brady anoixti pros xarin twn episkeptwn pou psilopazarevoun to katheti tous gyalisei, handicraft k rouxa kyriws. Striboume se ena mikro paradromo k arazoume stis plastikes karekles apo ena street food k pazarevoume misokila potamisia psaria panw apo tin foufou. Ola ayta mexri tis 12, afou isxyei ena eidos apagoreysis kykloforias stin poli meta ta mesanyxta. I mousiki & to alcohol stamatoun idi apo tis 22.00, opote oloi na ine spiti tous 12 k etoimoi to proi stis 6 na sidnramoun me kokkous "sticky rice." Parepiptontws i sygkekrimeni poli thelei prosoxi ntopioi mpatsoi tha kanoun sxedon ta panta gia na bgaloun ena extra merokamato gia dithen paranomia poy ekanes. O Kolya synexws anarwtietai an mas kleboun sto estiatorio, sto psilikatzidiko, sto kafe... Nai , kapws etsi niwthoume meta apo to perasma apo to boreio Lao pou ta pragmata einai poly pio agna k ysixa. Isws ayti i poli na mas fainotan diaforetiki an erxomastan 5 xronia nwritera. Ena meros omws pou paramenei panemorfo einai o perioxi me tous kataraxtes misi wra me songhtaew apo tin poli. Eki vgalame arketes fotografies k vgikame ligo ekso apo to velinekes ton tuk tuk k tis kornas. DO not miss it ...

Luang Nahm Tha ... and around ...

Tis ypoloipes imeres sti voria afti eparhia tou Lao kaname mikres eksormisis kirios me podilato k diashisame omorfa horia me plousies ikones. Apires fotogarfies me tous psarades sto potami, me ta paidia na paizoun sto sholio, foties to vradi na kapnizoun stous agrous, horikoi na etoimazoun fagito, i mallon ginekes genikos en drasei. Oi antres apofevgoun ton ilio k drastiriotites pou mpori na se idronoun. Genikotera pantos i periohi endiknitai gia slow travellers mias k oloi oi touristes stin mikri afti poli den ksepernoun tous 40 peripou k tous antilamvanese apo ta 2 estiatoria pou iparhoun i sto mikro night market opou ehi 10 pagkous me fai k 2-3 me mpihlimpidia gia souvenir. I herbal natural sauna itan eksipni patenta sto horio me ena terastio kazani na atmizi k molis evgenes ekso sou erihnan k ena heraki ksilo-massage.

Gia osous endiaferontai na viosoun mia tetia empiria, yparhoun poikila programmata apo EU parakalo pou asholounte me volutneering se teaching, opos k me to stisimo k ekpaidefsi daskalon. Oi skandinavikes hores, opos k i Dania, ehoun hronia pou stelnoun anthropino dynamiko k kati ligosta lefta sti ftohiki afti periohi. Den ksero an theloun na eksileothoun gia kati, opos diladi oi Galloi pou itan oi apoikiokrates stin Notioanatoliki Asia, alla aksizi ton kopo na zisi kanis edo gia ena trimino toulahiston.
Me local bus fisika anahorisame gia Luang Prabang, tin pio touristiki periohi tis horas me pollous naous. To taksidi, opos anamenotan, itan ligo peripetiodes me to leoforio na ehi provlima, na allazoume lastiha k ftasame shetika kourasmenoi to vradi. Pos na min imaste alloste me tin pezoporia pou ihame kani. Sto Seih Sou pame mia fora to trimino k eki mesa se tris meres diashizame jungle gia 6 ores kathe mera. Super fit, suuuuuuuuuuuuuper fit!!!

Luang Nahm Tha (LAO)

To apokorifoma (highlight) stin Luang Nahm Tha itan to triimero trekking pou organosame me ntopio eco-tourism praktorio k 2 kopeles pou mas akolouthisan, Yanna (Russia), Sue (Holland). Amfoteroi dilosame oti itan apo tis pio dinates empiries olou tou asian trip mas, kathos imastan tiheroi na vrethoume mesa se mia fyli anthropon (Akha hill tribe) pou den ihan ksanadi lefkous, den ihan di allous ksenous i "parisaktous" sto horio tous.

Mesa se dyo lepta exei fygei oli i kourasi apo to 6wro perpatima kathws dekades paidia mas perikiklwnoun me xamogela k "sa-bai-deeeeee" (diki tous kalimera). Niwsame toso eyprosdektoi se ayto to meros k me to kalimera xekinise ena yperoxo party me lao-lao wine (kati san ti raki) dipla sti fwtia sto spiti toy arxigoy pou parepiptwntos eleipe. Ine diskolo na epikoinonisis me anthropous pou de milan oute ti glossa Lao, para mono liges leksis opote oute o guide mas mporouse na milisi me kapion pera apo ti daskala tou horiou.
Eikones k skinika apo alli epoxi me prwtagwnistes ta paidia tis fylis. Ta mpoukalia adeiazoun k olos o kosmos katebainei katw, mprosta apo ton mayro sxoliko pinaka k to mathima arxizei arga gia ta dedomena tous (8 meta mesimvrias). I Yanna k i Sue skarfizontai apisteyta kolpakia gia to pws mporei na ginei ena mathima agglikwn toso diaskedastiko. I wra pernouse k ta paidia den pigenan gia ypno, mehri pou mas ipan na stamatisoume gia simera na tous leme alles leksis giati ihan ftasi mesanihta. Alla k emis pou me ti voithia tou Lao wine spasame ton pago k me ti glossa tou somatos "sizitousame" me tous ntopious, ihame arhisi na ligoume kanonika. Kolya mporeis na me sikwseis i na zitisoume boitheia apo ton typo me ta leyka gantia?
To dynato prwino trekking ksipnise biaia myalo k swma. Omofona i pezoporiki omada de thelame na afisoume to horio afto. To proi tous dosame kati dorakia pou ihame feri mazi mas, kinezika pehnidakia, molivia, tetradia, odontovourtses. O arhigos tou horiou protine kalitera na ta dosoume sti daskala tou horiou na tous ta mirasi ekini pou kseri pioi ehoun pio poli anagi. Ti pio poli k pio ligo, oloi zousan se dekades mesa sta bamboo huts k plenontousan sti mia k monadiki vrisi, k hrisimopiousan ta 3 fota (bulbs) pou ipirhan sto spiti tou chief. To ypoloipo horioudaki itan sto skotadi, ektos apo kapies gonies pou anavan foties k mazevotan giro giro. Ilikrina, me misi kardia afisame pisw stis paidikes fwnes k sta xamogela twn Akha people. Ta "hello" & "bye bye" os nees isagoges sto leksilogia tous itan diaskedastiko gia ekinous k mas kseprovodisan mehri pou hathikame pali sti zougla.
Defteri mera k o odigos mas anoikse to bima toy k emeis me katebasmena kefalia ton akolouthisame. Me paromoies eikones, alla ohi toso dinates, perasame alla 2 bradya se xwria me topikes fyles (Hmong & Black Thai tribe). I alithia ine omos oti sto telefteo horio i epetia itan fortiki . Oso pio polla agglika akouges toso pio poli touristes eniothes oti ehoun perasi k distihos afinan k aftoi to stigma tous. Tehnasmata opos na voutan ta paidia tous sto krio potami molis evlepan touristes apo ti strofi k na tremoun ta idia molis eftanes dipla tous oste na tous dosis katitis na foresoun itan sinithismena. Fisika k den ksanaepernes afto pou tous edoses, de se eniaze k poli malista, alla itan toso antifatikes oi ikones aftes me to proto horio pou episkeftikame. Epomenos itan evlogo i aporia pou ihame sto telos kata poso simvalame k emis stin allotriosi sto horio ton Akha k an se 5 hronia katantisoun k aftoi kapos ets san tous black thai, isos na voithisame k emis. Ine diskolo na ektimisis pos simvalis arnitika isos stin ekseliksi tis zois tous, akoma k an esi ise o pio kalovoulos peripatitis pou tous episkeftike ... hmmm den ksero k ine diskolos provlimatismos pou sikoni poli kouventa ...