Saturday, 28 February 2009

Vang Vieng (LAO)

To taksidi apo Luang Prabang pros Vang Vieng diirkise poli, perissotero tou anamenomenou k ta strofilikia itan polla. Eki siniditopiisame oti to Lao ehi polla vouna. Molis mpenis sto leoforio sou dinoun plastiki sakoulitsa mias k oi perissoteroi ntopioi den ine sinithismenoi se taksidia k idika me leoforio se tetious dromous. Oi haradres paramonevan k omoloume oti itan ligo fovistika, alla to topio se antamivi ta mala. Apisteftes eikones k diahita horia kremasmena stis plagies kata mikous tou dromou.
Oi prwtes eikones pou antikrysame ftanontas to brady stous dromous tis Vang Vieng itan methysmenoi aggloi k araxtoi touristes pou trwgane blepontas Friends & Simpsons. Meta tin prwti apogoiteysi omws eidame oti eimaste se ena panemorfo meros pou an apofygeis ta gwniaka bar k tous kraxtes tous tha peraseis yperoha. Ayto kanane k polloi european pou menoune ekei k telika kanane oikogeneies k menoun 6 mines ton xrono se auton ton yperoxo topo.To kentro toy einai o potamos Nam Song k ola diadramatizontai gyrw toy. Tin imera oi ntopioi edw kanoun mpanio, plenoun ta rouxa tous, psarevoun, mazevoun horta anamesa apo tis pertres, kapoioi alloi taksidiwtes dokimazoun tis ikanotites tous sto kayak k alloi sto tubing (samprella fortigou). Kanenas den xefeygei apo ta bar stis oxthes toy Nam Song pou exoun stisei nerotsoylithres, vatires gia boutia k patentes typou ziprails (Flight of Gibbon) pou kataligoun sto nero k merikes fores panw se allous louomenous. i sti hiroteri se krimena vrahia. Ola ta parapanw isxyoun gia periodo ksirasias-Noembrio me Februario-afou toys ypoloipous mines i stathmi toy potamou anebainei metra oloklira k oi drastiriotites meiwnontai sto elaxisto.
Ksefeygontas apo to polykosmiko kentro tis Vang Vieng, yparxoun anoixtes agores me alithina prwsopa pisw apo toys brwmikous pagkous. Itan mesimeri, oloi itan oligon araxtoi pisw stis karekles tous i sta krebbatia tous (pou einai mesa sta magazakia tous) tin wra pou emeis psaxname gia post office gia na steiloume tis prwtoxroniatikes kartes pou ftasane Ellada enamisi mina meta. Xe xe ... to gelio ine oti oi ntopioi de tha sikothoun tin ora tis siestas tous na se eksipiretisoun. Apo tin aiora, to rnatso i tin karekla tha se rotisoun ti thelis k 99% tha sou poun "den eho", "den ksero" ... "oxou re farang pou olo erhese tis akatalilles ores k ehis k apetisis pia"... kapos ets skeftonte k isos k na ehoun dikio. Idi megali ektasi sto kentro me barakia, restaurants, internet cafes, mini markets k travel agents ehi diamorfothi idika gia tis anages ton farang. I ypoloipi poli zi stous dikous tis rythmous, ihous, mirodies, ikones ...
Me podilato k mixanaki kapoies fores perasame to footbridge pou mas horize to potami k traviksame dytika gia na doume spilies k parapotamous (Tham Phu Kham). Paroti oi apostaseis einai mikres, mia fora mono kataferame na ftasoume sto legomeno Blue Lagoon, afou kathe fora briskame synarpastika topia k mas epiane i nyxta. Na min ksexniomaste, i apagoreysi meta tis 12 k pali isxyei, opote kommenes oi ellinikes synithies na bgainoume meta tis 2 to brady sta barakia. Oi mousikes ekei, dystyxws poly katw tou metriou, kratiesai zwntanos apo ta buckets full of white russian k protimas na teleiwsei to djiliki k na arakseis stis polyxrwmes aiwres gia muang.
Telika itan to proto meros sto olo taksidi so far pou meiname shedon 10 meres. Se ayton ton paradeiso tou backpacker pou sygkritika me ypoloipa merakia se Southeast Asia einai -oxi gia poly akomi, osoi to apofasisete biasteite- akoma agno, xalaro k poli ftino. Sti suite pou miname diname 10 afro alla grigora metakomisame ekso apo to island me ta barakia, 7 afro to diklino me thea to potami, mazi me tin aiora :p .... Khàwp jąi la lai (eyxaristoyme poly) to Q-bar panw ston kentriko k tin monadiki stroumpouli kyria toy Falcon restaurant (next door to Q-bar) gia ta yperoha breakfast k gevmata. Eis sto epanidein ;)

Tuesday, 24 February 2009

Luang Prabang

Ftasame se astiko topio, oi farang einai tosoi polloi k opou k na gyriseis tin matia sou tous blepeis. Oi ntopioi tin exoun psiliastei tin douleia me ton tourismo k ola einai dyo me treis fores akribotera, ektos apo to filokseno guesthouse Mai-Pai Inn. O sympathitikos tourkos idioktitis pou isa isa fainetai to xamogelo toy katw apo tin plousia geneiada toy gkrineiazei synexeia gia to fagito, gia tis diakopes reymatos, gia tous ntopious, gia ton kairo. K aftos omos meta apo megali periplanisi se oli tin Asia eki katelikse prin liga hronia (mesogiaki nootropia diladi). Apo tin prwti anagnwristiki bolta stous 3 paralillous dromous tis Luang-Prabang ksexwrizoun ta diatiritea ktiria pou afisan oi Galloi sto diaba tous, ta polla european cafe, oi foritoi pagkoi fagitwn pou serbiroun sxedon ta panta se baguette k oi ametritoi naoi me toys monaxous tyligmenous sta portokali rasa.
Mias k aneferes tous naous, na prostheso mono pos afti i poli os politistiki klironomia tis UNESCO den ekpempi katholou telika kapia thriskeftiki kataniksi, kati spiritual genikotera. Oi naoi ine pio poli sight, eno oi monahoi erhonte kirios apo ta poli ftoha horia k an mi ti allo, toulahiston eksasfalioun trofi & stegi. Mas diigithikan polles istories apo touristes/stries pou ihan ponires protasis apo monahous. Emis petihame mia orea omada afton sto leoforio apo Lao pros Tailandi k itan gia ad tis Apple, me ta rasa, tin kouvertoula, to ipod k ti thesi piso ksaplomeni na kimounte. Vevea ofiloume na omologisoume oti ine arketa dektikoi gia opiodipote siitisi k se kathe nao vlepis ksenous na zitan mazi tous ston avlogyro.
I agora einai kathe brady anoixti pros xarin twn episkeptwn pou psilopazarevoun to katheti tous gyalisei, handicraft k rouxa kyriws. Striboume se ena mikro paradromo k arazoume stis plastikes karekles apo ena street food k pazarevoume misokila potamisia psaria panw apo tin foufou. Ola ayta mexri tis 12, afou isxyei ena eidos apagoreysis kykloforias stin poli meta ta mesanyxta. I mousiki & to alcohol stamatoun idi apo tis 22.00, opote oloi na ine spiti tous 12 k etoimoi to proi stis 6 na sidnramoun me kokkous "sticky rice." Parepiptontws i sygkekrimeni poli thelei prosoxi ntopioi mpatsoi tha kanoun sxedon ta panta gia na bgaloun ena extra merokamato gia dithen paranomia poy ekanes. O Kolya synexws anarwtietai an mas kleboun sto estiatorio, sto psilikatzidiko, sto kafe... Nai , kapws etsi niwthoume meta apo to perasma apo to boreio Lao pou ta pragmata einai poly pio agna k ysixa. Isws ayti i poli na mas fainotan diaforetiki an erxomastan 5 xronia nwritera. Ena meros omws pou paramenei panemorfo einai o perioxi me tous kataraxtes misi wra me songhtaew apo tin poli. Eki vgalame arketes fotografies k vgikame ligo ekso apo to velinekes ton tuk tuk k tis kornas. DO not miss it ...

Sunday, 22 February 2009

Luang Nahm Tha ... and around ...

Tis ypoloipes imeres sti voria afti eparhia tou Lao kaname mikres eksormisis kirios me podilato k diashisame omorfa horia me plousies ikones. Apires fotogarfies me tous psarades sto potami, me ta paidia na paizoun sto sholio, foties to vradi na kapnizoun stous agrous, horikoi na etoimazoun fagito, i mallon ginekes genikos en drasei. Oi antres apofevgoun ton ilio k drastiriotites pou mpori na se idronoun. Genikotera pantos i periohi endiknitai gia slow travellers mias k oloi oi touristes stin mikri afti poli den ksepernoun tous 40 peripou k tous antilamvanese apo ta 2 estiatoria pou iparhoun i sto mikro night market opou ehi 10 pagkous me fai k 2-3 me mpihlimpidia gia souvenir. I herbal natural sauna itan eksipni patenta sto horio me ena terastio kazani na atmizi k molis evgenes ekso sou erihnan k ena heraki ksilo-massage.
Gia osous endiaferontai na viosoun mia tetia empiria, yparhoun poikila programmata apo EU parakalo pou asholounte me volutneering se teaching, opos k me to stisimo k ekpaidefsi daskalon. Oi skandinavikes hores, opos k i Dania, ehoun hronia pou stelnoun anthropino dynamiko k kati ligosta lefta sti ftohiki afti periohi. Den ksero an theloun na eksileothoun gia kati, opos diladi oi Galloi pou itan oi apoikiokrates stin Notioanatoliki Asia, alla aksizi ton kopo na zisi kanis edo gia ena trimino toulahiston.
Me local bus fisika anahorisame gia Luang Prabang, tin pio touristiki periohi tis horas me pollous naous. To taksidi, opos anamenotan, itan ligo peripetiodes me to leoforio na ehi provlima, na allazoume lastiha k ftasame shetika kourasmenoi to vradi. Pos na min imaste alloste me tin pezoporia pou ihame kani. Sto Seih Sou pame mia fora to trimino k eki mesa se tris meres diashizame jungle gia 6 ores kathe mera. Super fit, suuuuuuuuuuuuuper fit!!!